Monday, July 25, 2011

A Journey Through Karamoja-land

Friday before last, we traveled the approximately 400 kilometers from Moroto to Kampala. The majority of the trip is on a dirt road carved in major potholes, causing us to rarely get the Landcruiser above 40 km/hr. For a drive that, as Daddy Dub figured out, is less than the distance between Sherman and Lubbock, the time it takes to reach Kampala from Moroto is between 7 and 10 hours.
The roadtrip, however, is beautiful and I never get tired of staring out the window. At the start of the trip from Moroto, we travel through many of the villages where Seth’s team distributes food. No one stays in their huts; people are all out in the sun doing various activities: women and girls are fetching water, sifting and drying seeds, sweeping the dirt outside and around their huts with make-shift brooms made out of sticks or reeds. Women wave and laugh while the teenage girls stop and stare, giving a shy smile as we pass. Young, half-naked and dirty children are playing hopscotch, tag, or wrestling, or running to the road where they hear a vehicle coming waving and screaming “mzungu!” Men and boys could be found herding goats or cows along with a stick as the animals find brush to eat or sitting on their hand-carved stools underneath an acacia tree talking and passing time.
There are two differences that stand out to me so far between the Langi people near Lira and the Karamajong surrounding Moroto. One difference is the way they dress. The Karamajong women wear 5 or 6 layers of yellow, white, red and blue beads wrapped around their necks. A certain color, (perhaps white), is a sign of beauty and availability for young women. For older women, the beads represent a sign of “wealth” (i.e. possessing cows and goats). The women also wear knee-length, multi-layered and multi-colored broom skirts. They decorate their ankles, wrists, and ears with bracelets and earrings.
The men and boys wrap themselves in red plaid cloth draped over one shoulder. Sometimes they wear additional clothes underneath the cloth and sometimes they don’t. In addition, many women and men have flesh bumps that form a pattern around their eyes and foreheads. This is also a sign of beauty and style and is done by making tiny cuts on the face in a pattern and pouring some sort of solution or poison that reacts with the skin causing it to bubble up. Then, as the cuts heal, bumpy scars are formed causing the patterns.
Do I think the bumps are beautiful as the Karamojong do? Well… definitely not yet. In fact, I think they make them look mean and fierce, which might be the point. However, the longer I’m here, the more I might begin to see the beauty in them.
Another difference between the Langi people and the Karamajong is the amount of friendliness exhibited by each tribe. The Karamajong, a more uncivilized group than the Langi, are less friendly and seem distrustful. Suffering from the drought that has wracked parts of Somalia and Sudan as well, the Karamojong have relied on dried goods from the World Food Program, distributed by NGO’s such as Samaritan’s Purse, for the last 40 years. The able-bodied are now given assistance with seeds and tools for gardens and are required to work to receive food. The vulnerable, (elderly and children), still receive food rations without the requirement to work. The people live in fear of weather conditions, the possibility of food assistance cutbacks, and the threat of cattle raids. While many will smile and wave, still others will stare with a look somewhere between a scowl and wonder.
After the first 3 hours on the drive from Moroto to Kampala, the dry, bushy terrain begins to change to taller acacia trees and then to marshy rice fields. Inhabited villages are few and far between at this point and I either choose to keep an eye out for the great variety of wild birds to be spotted or let the jerky ride of the vehicle amazingly lull me to sleep.
Once we are out of Karamojaland and stop in the bustling city of Mbale for frostbitten ice cream, (but ice cream, nonetheless), we excitedly know we are getting close to Kampala, the land of multi-ethnic foods, cappuccinos, dirt and vehicle exhaust that will choke you, dirt-cheap massages and pedicures, boda rides, and the movie theater… oh yeah, and the SP Cycle Management Training.

During the month here so far, I’m colliding with a lot of emotions: exhilaration, trepidation, affection, joy, boredom, spiritual thirst, and fulfillment. I’ve also experienced somewhat of an identity crisis, an increasing burden for the impoverished and lost, and some moments of loneliness. Although the positive emotions are what we all naturally strive for, I welcome the not-so-positive ones, too. I think in the midst of those emotions are when I pray more, grow closer in my relationships, and learn to be still.

Thursday, June 23, 2011

Back to Uganda

I arrived in Kampala 2 days ago and Seth and Chris (Samaritan's Purse Country Director), picked me up from the airport. Seth has already been living and working here for a month while I have been finishing up work, moving out of our house, and packing and taking care of business stuff at Mom and Dad's (with TONS of help from Mom-thanks, Mom!, and from Dad, Wes, and Bunny as I moved out of the house- thanks guys!). For those of you who don't know, Seth is directing a food distribution program in the Karamoja region of Northern Uganda due to a severe drout the people are experiencing.

It's great to be back although we are being a little spoiled in Kampala before we travel up to Moroto on Sunday. Seth has been working out of the Kampala office this week and we are staying with Chris and Jodi, eating Mexican food and playing Settler's. Seth keeps telling me to eat up because, "trust me, there's not a lot of food in Moroto and you will get really tired of beans and rice". He has also been telling me to take lots of hot showers.

Uganda smells very nostalgic. If you can imagine a mixture of dirt, roasted maze, and cooking fire, that's what it smells like. Haven't smelled too much B.O. yet, although that's also a nostalgic smell :) We rode motorcycle bodas today which brings back memories.

Seth and I have tons to talk about and our conversations and time together has been fun and different. I feel like our relationship might be a little different this year as we will become more of a team in our support of each other.

That's about all I have so far- there is tons to take pictures of and I'm looking forward to figuring out my new camera and posting some pics on the blog.

We miss you all!

Love,

MariAnne